What water pulls out
Glycyrrhizin
Water-loving- The compound that gives licorice root its sweetness.
- Calming and soothing for irritated, red skin.
- Dissolves easily in water, rose water and toners.
From the reel you saved
Mulethi ko paani nahi, tel chahiye. मुलेठी + oil, the dark-spot way
Licorice's dark-spot compound, glabridin, dissolves in oil, not water. Here's the science, how to make licorice oil at home, and the four oils that suit your skin.
PaaniPowder sinks. Glabridin stays locked inside.
TelOil turns golden. Glabridin moves into it.
One root, two very different compounds
Mulethi is loved in Indian skincare for good reason. But the part that works on dark spots behaves nothing like the part that soothes, and the liquid you mix it with decides which one you get.
What oil pulls out
Glabridin
Oil-loving- Slows tyrosinase, the enzyme your skin uses to make melanin.
- The reason licorice is known for dark spots and uneven tone.
- Barely dissolves in water, so a water-based pack leaves most of it behind in the powder.
Mulethi with rose water is a soothing pack. Mulethi infused in oil is your dark-spot serum.
Make licorice oil at home
Ek chammach mulethi, thoda sa tel, and a little patience. Everything you use must be completely dry, because even a drop of water in an oil infusion invites mould.
-
Mix
Stir the mulethi powder into the oil until there are no dry clumps.
Using a trial bottle from the box? Half a teaspoon of powder is enough for one bottle.
-
Warm it gently
Place the bowl in a pan of hot, not boiling, water for 30 to 40 minutes. Stir every 10 minutes. The oil will slowly turn golden.
No stove? Seal the bottle and keep it in a dark cupboard for 2 weeks, shaking once a day.
-
Strain
Pour through muslin or a coffee filter until the oil runs clear. Squeeze the cloth gently to get the last drops.
-
Bottle and use
Store in an amber bottle away from sunlight. Apply 2 to 3 drops at night on clean skin, after a patch test on your inner arm. Use within 2 months.
Pick your skin type, get your four oils
Every oil below carries glabridin well. The difference is how it feels on your skin.
Wash your face, wait an hour, and don't apply anything. How does your skin feel?
Oily and acne-prone skin does best with thin, fast-absorbing oils that are high in linoleic acid and won't sit on the surface.
Hemp Seed Oil
Featherlight and rich in linoleic acid, which oily skin often runs short on.
Featherlight feel
View Hemp Seed OilGrapeseed Oil
Thin and quick to sink in, with no greasy film left behind.
Featherlight feel
View Grapeseed OilOrganic Jojoba Oil
Technically a liquid wax that closely resembles your skin's own sebum.
Light feel
View Organic Jojoba OilOrganic Rosehip Oil
A classic for post-acne marks, and a natural partner to licorice.
Light feel
View Organic Rosehip OilDry skin wants richer oils that cushion and soften, so the licorice oil doubles as your night moisturiser.
Avocado Oil
Rich and cushiony, great for tight, rough patches.
Rich feel
View Avocado OilSweet Almond Oil
The everyday comfort oil. Soft, gentle and very familiar to Indian skin.
Medium feel
View Sweet Almond OilAfrican Marula Oil
Deeply nourishing, yet absorbs better than you'd expect.
Medium feel
View African Marula OilShea Oil
The liquid part of shea butter, with the nourishment and none of the solid texture.
Rich feel
View Shea OilCombination skin needs balance: enough richness for the cheeks, light enough for the T-zone.
Organic Moroccan Argan Oil
Rich enough for dry cheeks, light enough for an oily T-zone.
Light feel
View Organic Moroccan Argan OilHazelnut Oil
Mildly astringent, so shiny areas feel less greasy.
Light feel
View Hazelnut OilOrganic Moringa Oil
Light and very stable, so your infusion stays fresh longer.
Light feel
View Organic Moringa OilPomegranate Oil
Packed with antioxidants for dullness across both zones.
Medium feel
View Pomegranate OilNormal skin can wear almost anything, so these picks lean towards glow and even tone.
Baobab Oil
Balanced, light, and slow to go rancid.
Light feel
View Baobab OilTea Seed Oil
Silky camellia seed oil, a staple of East Asian skincare.
Light feel
View Tea Seed OilWalnut Oil
A smooth everyday oil for keeping your glow steady.
Medium feel
View Walnut OilSea Buckthorn Oil
Deep orange and full of carotenoids. Use a few drops in a blend, as it tints.
Medium feel
View Sea Buckthorn OilReactive skin needs mild oils that support the skin barrier. Always patch test for 24 hours first.
Evening Primrose Oil
Rich in GLA, a fatty acid that supports a calmer skin barrier.
Light feel
View Evening Primrose OilBorage Seed Oil
One of the richest plant sources of GLA, and gentle on reactive skin.
Light feel
View Borage Seed OilPeach Kernel Oil
Soft and mild, a lighter alternative to almond.
Light feel
View Peach Kernel OilOrganic Jojoba Oil
Rarely irritating, and one of the most stable oils you can use.
Light feel
View Organic Jojoba OilYour box of six: four oils, two packets of mulethi
Trial sizes of your four oils plus two trial packets of mulethi powder, so you can infuse a small batch in each oil and see which one your skin likes best.
Your box for oily skin
- Oils for oily skin
- Hemp Seed OilTrial size
- Grapeseed OilTrial size
- Organic Jojoba OilTrial size
- Organic Rosehip OilTrial size
- For the infusion
- Mulethi Powder2 trial packets
Everything you need to make your first licorice oils is in the box. Just add a bowl, hot water and a strainer.
See my box of 6Your six items will be ready in our Box of Six builder. Review your box there and check out.
Not your skin type?
Your box for dry skin
- Oils for dry skin
- Avocado OilTrial size
- Sweet Almond OilTrial size
- African Marula OilTrial size
- Shea OilTrial size
- For the infusion
- Mulethi Powder2 trial packets
Everything you need to make your first licorice oils is in the box. Just add a bowl, hot water and a strainer.
See my box of 6Your six items will be ready in our Box of Six builder. Review your box there and check out.
Not your skin type?
Your box for combination skin
- Oils for combination skin
- Organic Moroccan Argan OilTrial size
- Hazelnut OilTrial size
- Organic Moringa OilTrial size
- Pomegranate OilTrial size
- For the infusion
- Mulethi Powder2 trial packets
Everything you need to make your first licorice oils is in the box. Just add a bowl, hot water and a strainer.
See my box of 6Your six items will be ready in our Box of Six builder. Review your box there and check out.
Not your skin type?
Your box for normal skin
- Oils for normal skin
- Baobab OilTrial size
- Tea Seed OilTrial size
- Walnut OilTrial size
- Sea Buckthorn OilTrial size
- For the infusion
- Mulethi Powder2 trial packets
Everything you need to make your first licorice oils is in the box. Just add a bowl, hot water and a strainer.
See my box of 6Your six items will be ready in our Box of Six builder. Review your box there and check out.
Not your skin type?
Your box for sensitive skin
- Oils for sensitive skin
- Evening Primrose OilTrial size
- Borage Seed OilTrial size
- Peach Kernel OilTrial size
- Organic Jojoba OilTrial size
- For the infusion
- Mulethi Powder2 trial packets
Everything you need to make your first licorice oils is in the box. Just add a bowl, hot water and a strainer.
See my box of 6Your six items will be ready in our Box of Six builder. Review your box there and check out.
Not your skin type?
Before you start
Can I just mix the powder into oil and apply it?
You can, but it will feel gritty and won't spread well. Warming and straining gives you a smooth oil that has already taken up the glabridin, so there's no reason to keep the powder in.
Should I stop using mulethi with rose water?
No. A mulethi and rose water pack is still a lovely soothing pack for tired or irritated skin. For dark spots and uneven tone, reach for the oil version.
How long before I see a difference?
Dark spots fade slowly with any ingredient. Give it 6 to 8 weeks of nightly use, and wear sunscreen every day, because sun exposure keeps making new pigment.
I have a nut allergy. Which oils should I skip?
Skip sweet almond, hazelnut and walnut, and check with your doctor before trying peach kernel. Hemp seed, grapeseed and jojoba are good nut-free picks.
Is it safe during pregnancy?
Mulethi is a gentle, traditional ingredient, but skin can behave differently during pregnancy. Patch test first and check with your doctor if you're unsure.
How do I know if my oil has gone off?
Fresh licorice oil smells mild and slightly sweet. If it smells sharp, like old cooking oil, or looks cloudy, throw it out and make a fresh batch.
Made your mulethi oil? Show us.
Share your batch with 8,800+ DIY-ers in our WhatsApp community, or send us your version of the recipe for the DIY Hub.
Always patch test before using a new ingredient. This page shares traditional and scientific information about skincare ingredients and is not medical advice.